Loooong post ahead; grab a cup of coffee, put your feet up, and enjoy!
Oh man, what an amazing weekend. (And yes, as a matter of fact, I am completely plowed in that picture!)
I’d never been to New Orleans, but had always wanted to go. Now, to be fair, I have a list about half a mile long of places I’d love to go. But New Orleans was on a special subset, a bucket list of destinations, if you will. There was something there that enticed me on so many levels, and every time The Scientist had to go there for business (three times!), I would be so bummed because I couldn’t go.
So when Kh and I decided to take NOLA by storm, we planned to go down the weekend before Mardi Gras for a few reasons. One, we’d heard that Krewe Du Vieux’s parade is phenomenal, as well as hilariously funny and X-rated. Two, if (and it turned out to be “when”) the Saints made it to the Super Bowl, the city was going to riot that night. Three, the crowds during the bigger parades are such that even with people trying to be nice, it would be really dangerous for me. I just do not have the stability to not hit the ground when knocked by some drunken soul staggering by, and standing for the length of time necessary to see anything would kill me. So serendipity swooped in with a cheap flight, and Marriott points from Kh’s husband, Flake (smooches to Flake!!), so off we went.
As luck would have it, Delta and Northwest merged this weekend, which horked our flights all to hell. Then the snow storm hit, and they got double horked. But we managed to get there only about an hour later than scheduled, and hopped a cab to the hotel, which was right in the French Quarter. Neither of us had slept more than about 2-3hrs the night before, had been up by 4am, and hadn’t eaten more than a granola bar or cookie. By the time we checked in, the headaches had set in and we were light headed.
Enter Serios. If you’ve ever watched Throwdown With Bobby Flay, this place was the scene of the Muffaletta Throwdown. I don’t like them because I don’t like olives, but man, we had a Mickey Po’Boy that gave us mouthgasms throughout the meal. Phenomenal. We met the owner, Mike, who had beaten Bobby, and chatted with him for a bit. What a great guy. So, fed and blissful, we popped back to the hotel to pick up Alejandro and Lucille, and set out on our merry way.
We found a little shop with a woman running it who was from the Philippines. We liked her so decided to come back and do some of our shopping there when the time came. We wandered into the Quarter in a light mist, just enjoying people watching and seeing what we saw. Our meanderings took us to Decatur Street where we decided to have dinner at the Crescent City Brewhouse. One wonderful thing that I discovered is that Kh is as disdainful of chain restaurants as I am, especially when traveling. Chik-Fil-A is fine when you’re late for soccer practice, but there was no way in hell I was going into a culinary mecca like New Orleans and eating at some crappy fast food place. We never ate at the ritzy places, but both of us did insist on local cuisine with only one exception (details later). I had the gumbo (omg, delicious) and a seafood cheesecake, and Kh had calamari and a burger that covered a dinner plate. Despite being in a famous brewhouse, we were both kinda dehydrated, so we stuck with water. We just needed to get our system back together, and it worked well.
We’d been told that THE place to get a Hurricane was Pat O’Brien’s, and after the clusterfuck we had with our flights, we both knew we wanted one. Plus, how can you not? We found the bar and the line was out the door. We shrugged and said, “Ok, whatever,” and got a place. Then we were told that the line was only for the piano bar/sit down area, and if you just wanted to get a hurricane and walk out with it, you could go right in! Woohoo! Helloooo Hurricane! We were in and out in a few minutes after sipping them and watching a few drunk people belt out “Livin’ On A Prayer” along with Bon Jovi.
Exhaustion took its toll, so we decided to be smart and retire at a decent hour, as we knew we’d be out late the following night. So back to the hotel we went, updated our FB status, chatted briefly with our families, and then passed out cold.
Saturday was supposed to be sunny and 51 degrees. Uhhh…no. Not quite. I doubt it got above 40, and the wind was brutal. We layered up to go shooting, and I wound up buying a thin but padded/lined coat. I got a men’s large which was big on me, but worked over the layers, and I knew I could then hand it to The Ambassador when I was done. We also got matching stocking caps with pirates on them (can be seen in the pic)! Dang, we looked cute. Anyhow, back to our morning. We wandered our way to Café Du Monde where we blissed out on beignets and hot cocoa. Alejandro and Lucille got a work out as we went along, of course, and then we hit one of the highlights of the trip for me.
I have a “thing” for Mardi Gras masks. I find the artistry and extravagance in them just beautiful. The rich colors, the feathers and velvets, the exquisite designs, all of it appeals. I’m so not girly, but man, I could so easily blow a chunk of change on those things and have them up on my wall. We found two high end mask stores that do the one-of-a-kind ones, the made to order, the expensive ones. Now, in any of the stores, photography is forbidden. They don’t want people trying on the masks, taking a pic, and then tossing them back. It risks damaging the merchandise. Now, that applies not just to the mass produced ones, but also the one of a kinds as well. But in the latter, you also have to maintain artistic integrity. No one wants their designs copied! So in we go to Serendipitous Masks. Our jaws dropped as we walked into the tiny shop at the amazing opulence of what we saw. Not just masks, but dolls, Fabrege style eggs, tiaras, all sorts of stuff like that. I complimented the store owner and chuckled, mentioning that it was killing both of us not to photograph in there. She looked at us for a second and said, “I’ll let you take pictures if you want, if that’s all you’re doing.” We were elated! We thanked her profusely, and both made sure to make a purchase as a sign of gratitude. I bought a hand carved wooden zebra Pegasus ornament that had caught my eye, and Kh bought herself a tiara. Yes, you read right, a tiara. Because she is a Princess! It was hilarious to help her choose and then see her wear it. But man, we got some amazing shots in there. So, so cool.
We had a similar experience at Maskerade. Renette Brazil was a fascinating woman with a shop full of the most amazing, colorful masks I’ve ever seen. Such a mint of creativity! I was drooling. Again, more photos, more fun conversation, and then we kept on. The Voodoo Shop was next, where we had fun poking around and reading some historical stuff. We also saw Madame Laveau’s House of Voodoo later that night, but unfortunately, not her grave, as we’d planned. Everyone, and I mean everyone, that we spoke to all said, “Do NOT go there just the two of you, especially with your cameras. You must go in a group or with a tour.” It is just not safe. So we agreed to leave that for next year.
A break at the hotel was next, as we needed to rest a little and layer up before heading to the Krewe Du Vieux parade. So what do I mean by “layer up” you ask? Heh. I had a long sleeved thermal shirt, a tshirt, 2 heavy zip-front hoodie sweatshirts, and that jacket I bought. I had the stocking cap on my head with both hoods up, and fuzzy socks over my regular socks. Nothing under the jeans though. I tried to wear gloves, but of course, no dice with the cane. It just does not work. We got to the corner of Royal and Toulouse and set up right at the edge of the street. Perfect place. As the crowd grew, people were packed in like sardines. Next to us was a crew of 4 women in their late 50s, early 60s, with their 83 yr old mother, whom they called “Boomah.” ALL of them were just obliterated, and hilarious. Boomah had a walker with the seat on it, so she was sitting. During the parade, she was queen of the court; she got the best swag, all the beads, kisses from the Krewe, all of it. It was fantastic. We loved it. We also hung out with this gay couple behind us; they were so sweet and funny, and they caught me, preventing me from hitting the ground, when some drunk asshole decided to shove through the crowd. We adored them! The parade itself defies words. The pics really can’t be posted in public places without warnings, as they are obscene and profane, as well as hilarious. We had the best time. Kh’s favorite beads were the ones she received from a dancing sperm, and mine were the ones I received from a nice big marijuana plant. Way too much fun. Afterwards, we crossed the street and were in a little alcove putting our cameras away and Kh was calling her Mom (Hi Juanie!). Out of the blue, another parade of some smaller krewes came around the corner! So we popped over to the street again to watch that one. Nice little dessert.
We wandered over to Bourbon Street and decided to eat. The name of the place we chose escapes me, but it was quite good. I had a shrimp Po’Boy and Kh had Caribbean glazed ribs. Yum. She carried out a big cup of ice and Bourbon St. KoolAid and off we went. I took a few sips of the Kool Aid and it was really good. We caught beads from people in the balconies, and when we said, “Thank you!” they tossed more! Politeness works! A few groups of guys demanded, “Show us your tits!” but no freakin’ way. We had bought cute bras and if it was warmer, would’ve shown those. But all the way down? Nope. Just not my style. A few women did it, and more power to them, but it just isn’t my thing. We wandered into Café Beignet and hear a neat jazz/blues trio play. We shot some pics of them, tossed a dollar in the bucket and wandered on. We saw a few women with trays of test tube shots and they beckoned us over. Kh chose a Kamikaze and the woman put the closed end in her mouth and the open end to Kh’s lips and ducked her head. When we had asked what kind of shots she had, one of the ones she mentioned was a “Red Headed Slut” and I laughed and said, “Hey, I know one of those!” I chose one called “Fuck Me Up” which was 151 (rum), Peach Schnapps, and Triple Sec. But instead of putting the test tube in her mouth, she tucked it into her cleavage! I cracked up, but did the shot, no-handed as is customary! Kh got a good shot of that one, and I can’t wait to see it. What happened next was illegal, and so I will not post it here, but it was kinda funny.
Onward we went, in and out of shops, people watching, getting more beads. We saw one domestic go by us, but we just backed up and let them pass. It was the only sign of violence or asshattery we saw all weekend, really. Everyone else was fun and friendly.
At one point, a very drunk guy came up to me, grabbed my shoulder (lightly, not threatening) and said, “WAIT!” I stopped, smiled and him, and he said, “You are fucking AWESOME. I have to give you this!” and he took off a huge strand of big, white beads. He draped them over me, and I told him that my friend was awesome too. He looked at Kh and said, “YES! She is awesome too!” and took off a strand for her as well. We both kissed him on the cheek, and he said, “Fucking AWESOME!” and went on his way. We cracked up so hard at that. Gotta love Bourbon Street on a Saturday with a full moon, right?
We decided to meander our way back to the hotel; I was tipsy and Kh was drunk, but not totally trashed. We were pretty close when Kh saw more test tube shots and decided to do another. She chose a Sex On The Beach and we walked back out of the bar, only to be met by a woman with a tray of shots. She took 2 of the Fuck Me Up tubes, put the end in her mouth, grabbed Kh before she realized what was happening, and dumped them in her mouth. Well, 3 shots inside of 2 min? Kh was plastered real fast. I laughed myself silly because she looked so stunned. And it was funny! Right up until the girl grabbed 2 Jester shots (Everclear 190, 151 rum, and Strawberry Schnapps) and then grabbed me and did the same thing! Hoooooly cow. The Jester is known as the world’s strongest drink and I had just done a double shot of them. I’m a lightweight when it comes to alcohol anyhow, but that blew me away. I was so plowed. We laughed and staggered back to the hotel, the uneven sidewalk proving to be more difficult than usual for me! I didn’t fall, but came close a few times. Damn, we were hammered.
My darling daughters had demanded drunk texts and got them. We updated FB and crashed for the night, knowing we didn’t have to be anywhere the next morning til noon. (Thank Marie for that!)
Sunday morning was a little warmer, sunny, with less wind. I was thrilled. We only had to walk a block and a half to set up our spot for the Saints’ parade to honor Buddy D. He was an announcer for the Saints who always said that if they ever made it to the Super Bowl, he would walk through the streets of the French Quarter in a dress. He died in 2005, but they decided to honor him in the theme of this parade. Any man who wanted to march in it was welcome. All he had to do was show up at the Superdome by noon, and be wearing a dress. Hooboy. I’ve never seen that many men in drag before, but the pictures are flippin’ hilarious. (I’ll update with links later when I get everything edited and uploaded.) We met these 2 couples who were getting on a cruise ship the next day who were amazed that you can walk around with open containers of alcohol, and that stuff like Captain Morgan and Absolut could be purchased at the CVS behind where we were standing. The one girl cracked open a bottle of Captain and got started. At the end of the parade, we saw her lean into a cop car (and there were beads hanging on the rear view mirror!!), chat with the cop, get the beads, and kissed the cop on the cheek! Kh and I just howled. We’d never seen anything like this parade; the entire city was supporting the Saints, and most of them were out on the streets doing it. Unbelievable experience!
We grabbed some pizza and onion rings at a little dive bar, and then chilled for a while. We headed back out to do some night photography and wow, Alejandro and Lucille had fun. We got some amazing shots of the St Louis Cathedral, and the streets of the French Quarter. Just beautiful. Now, I mentioned that there is one exception to the “no chain restaurants” rule. Kh and I worship the Holy Trinity of Island music in God the Father (Jimmy Buffett), the Son (Kenny Chesney), and the Holy Spirit (Bob Marley), and so we needed to go to church. (See the lyrics for the song Coastal Confessions for further explanation.) We walked down to Margaritaville (waaaaay down in the French market!) and had dinner and a drink. Definitely our kind of place. When we walked back, we noticed that the area in which we were was verrrry quiet and dark and deserted. We weren’t nervous so much as just wary. We decided to cut over to Bourbon Street for the trek back to the hotel, as even if it was quieter than the night before, there were still people around. Strip clubs are open 7 days a week, y’all. Getting back to the hotel early was a wise move. We soaked in the hot tub and talked for a while and it loosened up some of the soreness. Then we packed all of our stuff to give us the most free time on Monday.
Monday morning, we showered, packed the last minute stuff, and headed out. Kh had some shopping to do and I wanted to pick up a few more things. We hit Café Du monde for beignets again (oh my god, so, so good!), and then hit the French market and worked our way back. The taxi picked us up at 3, and we had a great conversation with the driver on the way to LANOIA. Our flights were fine, and we both arrived safely, along with our luggage. The fragile gifties I’d brought back were intact, so I was thrilled.
We’ve decided without a doubt that Krewe Du Vieux will be an annual event, so if you’d like to join us, mark your calendars for February 17th next year!
Laissez les bon temps rouler!
P.S. This post will be updated with a link to the pics on Flickr if you want to see them. Check back later tonight or tomorrow!